Meigetsu-in

Overview

Meigetsu-in (明月院, めいげついん) is a Buddhist temple in the Yamanouchi district of Kita-Kamakura, Kanagawa prefecture. It belongs to the Rinzai Zen school and is affiliated with the Kenchō-ji line of temples. The temple is widely known by the nickname ajisai-dera, or "Temple of Hydrangeas," for the hundreds of hydrangea bushes that line its approach in early summer.

The temple's full formal name is Fugenzan Meigetsu-in (福源山明月院). Its main object of worship is the bodhisattva Shō Kannon (聖観音), a form of Kannon, the goddess of mercy. Meigetsu-in is counted among the 33 Sacred Sites of Kannon in Kamakura, a pilgrimage circuit dedicated to the bodhisattva.

History

Meigetsu-in was founded in 1160, during the Heian period (794–1185). The founding year falls in Eiryaku 永暦 (year 1 of the era), a short-lived era name that lasted only from 1160 into 1161. The temple's origins lie in a chapel established by Uesugi Norikata, a warrior of the Uesugi clan, who built it as a family prayer hall.

The temple was later converted into a Zen institution under the Rinzai school, taking its place within the Kenchō-ji school of temples. Kenchō-ji itself, the head temple of this school, was founded in Kamakura in 1253, and Meigetsu-in became one of its subordinate temples. Over the centuries the temple changed hands and functions, but its identity as a Kannon worship site remained constant, which is why it holds its place on the Kamakura Kannon pilgrimage.

The hydrangeas that give the temple its nickname were planted in the modern era, and they have since become the temple's most recognisable feature. The temple grounds also include a Zen garden and a cave known as the yagura, a type of rock-cut tomb chamber common in Kamakura.

What Stands There Today

The main hall of Meigetsu-in houses the Shō Kannon statue, the temple's central object of worship. The hall is a modest wooden structure typical of Kamakura-era Zen architecture, though the current building dates from later reconstructions. Visitors approach the hall through a narrow path flanked by dense hydrangea bushes, which bloom in blue and purple clusters from mid-June into early July.

Behind the main hall lies a small Zen garden, raked in the dry-landscape style. The garden is designed for contemplation from the hall's veranda. Adjacent to the garden is a yagura, a cave cut into the hillside, which contains stone carvings and serves as a memorial space. The cave is one of several such structures in the Kita-Kamakura area, where the soft tuff hillsides were easily carved into burial chambers for samurai families.

The temple grounds also feature a small bamboo grove and a pond, both integrated into the walking path. In autumn the maple trees draw a second wave of visitors, though the hydrangea season remains the temple's peak time. The temple is open year-round, with an admission fee charged during the flowering season.

The Name in Japanese

The temple's name is written 明月院. In kana it is read めいげついん, and in romaji it is Meigetsu-in.

The name breaks down into three characters:

• 明 — read mei (めい) in this word. The character means "bright" or "clear." It is composed of the sun radical 日 and the moon radical 月, combining to give the sense of something luminous and radiant.

• 月 — read getsu (げつ) in this word. The character means "moon." On its own it is read tsuki (つき), but in compounds it takes the on-reading getsu. Here it is the second element of the compound meigetsu, meaning "bright moon" or "full moon."

• 院 — read in (いん) in this word. The character means "institution" or "temple." It is commonly used for subtemples and cloisters within larger monastic complexes, and it appears in the names of many Buddhist establishments across Japan.

Taken together, 明月院 means "Temple of the Bright Moon." The name reflects the temple's original character as a quiet, contemplative place, and it carries the poetic resonance of moonlight that suits a Zen setting. The formal prefix Fugenzan (福源山) is a mountain name, a traditional honorary title given to temples; fugen means "source of fortune" and zan means "mountain," though no actual mountain is involved.

Visiting and Context

Meigetsu-in sits in the Yamanouchi neighbourhood of Kita-Kamakura, the northern district of Kamakura city. The temple is a short walk from Kita-Kamakura Station on the JR Yokosuka Line, which connects the area to central Tokyo in about an hour. The station is the usual starting point for visitors, and the temple is one of the first stops on the standard walking route through the northern Kamakura temples.

The temple is part of the 33 Sacred Sites of Kannon in Kamakura, a pilgrimage route that links temples and shrines across the city dedicated to Kannon. Pilgrims traditionally visit the sites in order, collecting stamps and prayers at each stop. Meigetsu-in is one of the more popular stops on the route, both for its religious significance and for its seasonal scenery.

The hydrangea season, from mid-June to early July, is the busiest time of year. The temple manages the crowds with timed entry and a separate admission fee during this period. Outside the flowering season the temple is quieter, and the Zen garden and cave can be appreciated without the press of visitors. The temple closes its doors in the late afternoon, so visitors should plan to arrive before mid-afternoon to allow time to walk the grounds.